Bayramingallover.theworld

I just sent a beautiful turkey to its death. Guilt issues.

-A text from my friend, Tor upon ordering our collective turkey from the bazaar

Linda, Tor, and I before the anticipated Turkey-oven separation

Dick, Kathy, Rebecca, and Mark enjoying the meal!

Tor, Carol, Vivian, Kathy, and Rebecca looking fabulous (especially Tor with the "bunny ears" photo move for grown ups)

Well, Thanksgiving has come and gone with much festivity in Azerbaijan though, a more appropriate name for the beloved holiday here would be “ex-pats of all kinds get together and eat.” For me, the holiday was more of an extended weekend of gluttony and idleness. The celebration began on Thursday when many of the Americans in Gəncə (Peace Corps Volunteers, Fulbright scholars / fellows, and family) gathered together for a late afternoon meal, complete with American stuffing, pecan pie, squash, creamed onions, and of course, a beautiful roasted turkey. Of all the things that have happened in my first year of service, one of the things that I am truly grateful for is the blessing of amazing site mates and friends in both of my placements.

The Table!

Viv, Tor, Mark, and Dick enjoying "the table"

The meal was full of good moments for pictures like this one with Tural and Viv showing their affection

The evening was full of good conversation, laughter, and loads of food. Having eaten a great deal of turkey and stuffing, Kathy, Linda, Viv, and I were well prepared for the next leg of our Thanksgiving weekend via the Baku night train. Azerbaijani trains are normally divided up into three sections: the general car (which resembles what I imagine the third class of the Titanic to have looked like), the 4 person cars (complete with bunks, bedding, and wash towel), and the “elite” 2 person cars (very much the Soviet version of the train scenes in “White Christmas”—hence, no club car and singing). Having experienced all three of these delightful forms of transportation, I would encourage the Azerbaijan visitor to go with the 4 person or 2 person options—preferably with friends. This Thanksgiving was my first time in the 4 person car with three of my friends. Linda and I proposed some activities for fun but our requests for participation in “truth or dare” and “light as a feather, stiff as a board” were vetoed in favor for sleep as it was 11:00 PM by the time we left.

The Christmas Bazaar

One of the things that I have realized about Peace Corps is how small the world actually is. My Thanksgiving host family situation exemplified this truth. A month or so after we swore in as volunteers, Kathy got connected with a Turkish ex-pat named Hande and her family. Hande was an exchange student in the United States 20 years ago and stayed in Buffalo, New York—Kathy’s hometown. She had attended Kathy’s high school 37 years after Kathy had graduated and they were brought together in Azerbaijan through e-mails with a mutual friend. Hande and her family currently live in Baku and this Thanksgiving, I had the opportunity to meet and spend time with them. It was a truly fantastic experience full of good conversation, kindness and relaxation. I had the opportunity to glance into a part of Azerbaijan that I had yet to see: the world of ex-pats. Throughout the weekend we would attend a play at the BP-financed international school, attend a fabulous charity Christmas Bazaar, and meet with individuals with exquisitely interesting stories. The second day, we attended the Thanksgiving Peace Corps get together at the Ambassador’s residence in Baku. Almost all of the volunteers currently serving in Azerbaijan turned up, everyone bringing a side dish of some sort. Needless to say, we had plenty to eat! From the dinner, Kathy and I attended yet another dinner party! I didn’t think that I would have culture shock going back this Christmas but in a 48 hour period, I saw (and tasted) both asparagus and broccoli…All in all, it was a fantastic weekend and lead into my last week at site before my Christmas holiday state-side.

For now, I am on “the home stretch”—the part of the tear-down calendar where the cardboard backing becomes visible through the thin number of pages remaining. While I don’t leave Azerbaijan (Insha Allah) until next week, I count my actual Christmas holiday to begin on Saturday due to the occurrence of dinner parties, last minute Christmas shopping and the inevitable jaunt to Baku with my suitcase and the promise of Korean food. Hence, I have 4 more days of “work.”

Here we go!...