Georgia.RunawayGuineaPigs.Stalin.

I have recently returned from Tbilisi with some exciting news: I am now the official owner of a guinea pig by the name of George as befits his birthplace. He was a token of my significant other’s Valentine’s Day affections as well as serving as my proxy engagement ring. Yes, that’s right. On Valentine’s Day outside of the Gori house that produced Joseph Stalin, Oruj presented me with flowers, George, and a sign reading, “will you marry me?” (I said “da” by the way).

Here I feel the need to obviate any questions related to our affinity for Stalin: No, I am not in any way sympathetic to the Stalin regime nor am I won-over by the Soviet Union’s history as a whole. While living in a post-Soviet state for the past year and a half has granted me some insight into the more effective aspects of the Soviet Union “in practice” for the purposes of development, I am critical of the human rights abuses, restriction of freedom of the individual, and the philosophy of Joesph Stalin and his predecessors.

With that said, let me underline that the logic behind the proposal at the feet of Joesph Stalin’s statue was meant for ironic and humorous effect. As many of those of you who know me understand, I have never had much affinity for the traditional and have recently sought humor as an alternative route. Additionally, the continued illegal diamond trade of “blood diamonds” compels me to reject the notion of an engagement ring here in Azerbaijan. Oruj knows this and therefore came up with the “engagement G.P” and the Stalin-statue scheme. Well played, love. Well played.

Here, I would like to say a few words about the relative pros and cons to guinea pigs and diamonds as expressions of commitment and endearment. As stated earlier, I have reservations regarding the one-sided ring swap as well as the potential human rights issues connected to the sale of diamonds from questionable sources / labor. At the same time, there is something to be said about the implications surrounding your engagement pig running under the bed and refusing to budge, even when you move—if not mountains—multiple mattresses and returning only due to hunger. Additionally, there is the comment that my friend Kathy made: “I hope that the marriage lasts longer than George.” I responded by starting with the fact that Cavies (their traditional name) normally last a long time but then realized that I was speaking relative to other small animals like hamsters, not relative to human relationships. Still, there is something to be said for nurturing a life together as the first major sign of commitment; this is, I believe the main message that an engagement ring is supposed to convey. I have always thought of wedding bands as being the ultimate sign of mutual commitment in the marital sense anyway. They tend to be simple, their significance rendered not through the objects themselves but through that which is conveyed through shared experiences, challenges, and triumphs they witness. Both people wear them while promising to be faithful and compassionate and truthful to the other while building a life together. In any case, if you have seen some of the pet shops in this neck of the woods, you would feel the need to rescue an animal too. Still, I plan to be significantly more careful with George in the future as the puppies in my neighborhood “play” as my friend Peter says, “to win.”

To come back to the main point, Georgia was fantastic. The city of Tbilisi is both welcoming and dynamic. A visitor will find art, places of worship, and architecture that speak to the city’s preservation of its unique cultural heritage. The patron saint of Georgia, St. George, may be found in the center of Old Tbilisi slaying the dragon with his spear. One may walk through the streets and visit the Turkish baths, the mosque, and the synagogue built in 1904 that serve as reminders of the diversity that exists quietly with the Caucuses. And of course, one cannot visit this city without seeing—literally—the famed fortress and large statue of “Mother Georgia” atop one of the many mountains that surround the city. At the same time, I find Tbilisi to be an exciting and multifaceted urban center, full of international activity. We were pleasantly surprised to find, in the middle of busy Rustaveli street, one may find relatively cheap and tasty sandwiches, burgers, and milkshakes at the “Elvis” Restaurant—a tip from RPCV friend, Linda. Additionally, a visit to shops like Prospero’s Books is not to be missed. Walking down the streets made me realize that I am in fact a city person at heart and am anxiously awaiting the time when I might reaquaint myself with my favorite American cities.

All the news for now. Pictures to follow. For now, I will let you use your imaginations in place of the services of internet provided here in Ganja which, like many things, seem to slow with the weather.